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Text and Photos by Jerry Stelmok |
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GREENVILLE - Garrett and Alexandra Conover of Mt. Desert Island waited three months for their wedding trip, because sufficient snow ands ice had not formed, nor temperatures dropped low enough to suit their special requirements. The young couple, also partners in an educational guiding service were married in an outdoor ceremony near Bar Harbor in October, and instead of the ordinary wedding gifts the friends and guests purchased a new 20' guide canoe to add to their growing livery of such craft which they use for both pleasure and in their business. To appropriately celebrate the union, the pair planned a winter wilderness trek, a 160 mile hike with loaded toboggans from Greenville to the Moosetown of Allagash, at the confluence of the Allagash and St. John Rivers, along one of the traditional watershed routes used for centuries by Indians and later by trappers, timber cruisers, and hunters.
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| The two began their journey January 27th, carefully loading their toboggans beside the ice-bound hull of the steamboat Katahdin tied up behind the Moosehead Marine Museum at Greenville. The twenty day odyssey will lead them the length of Maine's largest lake to Northwest Carry, and west across Seboomook Lake to Big Bog. From there they will enter the St. John watershed at Fifth St. John Pond, and the rest of the trip will be along this great wild river which flows north and eventually marks the boundary between Maine and Canada. If all goes according to plan they hope to reach the town of Allagash February 15. | ||
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Both started out with 94 pounds of gear loaded aboard their 14 pound Mistassinni Cree toboggans. They built the traditional trapper sleds with the help of a Mount Desert boatbuilder as closely as possible to the specifications of the original models. The long narrow toboggans are constructed of 5/16 inch thick white ash, and have few cross members insuring flexibility. There is a full curl forward, and although the toboggans are 10 feet long, they are only 10 inches wide. Alexandra said the toboggans pull easier because of the narrowness, and the resilient bottoms conform to the contours of the snow beneath, minimizing their tendency to turn over on rough terrain. The bottoms have been impregnated with pine tar, and waxed with paraffin to reduce friction. Two spruce traces and a simple leather strap employed as a harness, allow full freedom of the arms while pulling. |
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In deep snow, regular fine meshed snow shoes will be used,
but on the wind and snowmobile packed surface of Moosehead Lake, the two
could walk along the snow with little difficulty. To protect their feet,
Garrett and Alexandra rely on self made canvas mukluks with felt liners,
explaining that on an extended trip, even the best insulated boots freeze
up solid because of perspiration. The hand sewn canvas boots allow the
feet to breath and stay dry as long as temperatures stay below 20 degrees
Fahrenheit. When the snow becomes wet they prefer simple light rubber
pull-on totes, used with heavy socks or felts, to heavier boots once again,
because these can be turned inside out and dried completely in a few minutes.
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They avoid the bulky down clothing, which looks like surplus gear from an Apollo mission, and is often identified with such expeditions. Instead, the Conovers rely upon as many layers of wool clothing as necessary, covered by a large loose Anorak, or parka, which breaks the wind. They can adjust layers to keep comfortable all day without over-heating which they said presents the greatest possibility of freezing to death. Wool also has the ability to retain some heat even when wet. Woolen mitten liners with leather shells, and a wool face mask for protection on especially cold or windy days complete the outfit. An eight by ten canvas wall tent equipped with a thimble and a compact air-tight wood stove will provide shelter and warmth during the worst weather. During less severe weather they expect to sleep under a tarp next to an open fire. A diet of high caloric content, and high in fat will be required to keep them fit and energized in the prolonged cold. The couple plans on a minimum of three pounds of high energy food per day apiece, and have provisioned their outfits accordingly. They left Greenville with 78 pounds of high energy food aboard the two toboggans, and have cached 64 additional pounds near the half way point of the trip. The provisions include soupstock, bacon, meal, fruitcake, raisins, peanuts, cheese, sugar, peanut butter, rice, and stewed goatmeat in quantities that would stock the shelves of many small stores. Additionally they packed a modest larder of jerky and pemmican, two barely palatable, but traditional sustaining foods of the north woods. Alexandra commented that one really has to be out in the wilderness for a few days before he can eagerly attack the suet based pemmican. Thirty extra pounds of food have been packed to insure plenty in all events. They also have not ignored the possibility of adding fresh snowshoe hare and trout to the diet and have brought along a .22 rifle, as well as some ice fishing gear. Neither is a stranger to the winter woods and its potential dangers. Garrett spent most of a winter alone, wandering amidst the peaks of the Bitteroot Mountains in Montana, while a student in that state, keeping a journal of his adventures. Alexandra for her part, while a student at the College of the Atlantic, Bar Harbor, got off a train in the Labrador wilderness in the wintertime, and spent several days exploring what many would consider a hostile wasteland. Last winter the pair led a group of college students on a week expedition in the Jackman area, which proved disappointing only for the lack of snow. Both have gone beyond the efforts of the casual outdoors man in the pursuit of northwoods lore. Through research, interviews, and apprenticeships they have become proficient in many nearly forgotten north woods skills such as pounding brown ash for making baskets, or whittling a canoe paddle from a log with only and axe and a crooked knife. Both are skilled canoeists and have mastered the nineteenth century voyageurs paddling stroke which allows them to paddle for hours without much fatigue. Much of this lore was learned from such esteemed woodsmen as Mick Fahey of Chesuncook Village, and from older generation Indians in Washington County. The Conovers pass on as much of this knowledge as possible through their guiding service, North Woods Ways, as well as through lectures, and magazine articles the pair have written on various aspects of their skills. They are quick to point out that discretion is the better part of safety, and are well aware of the potential dangers posed by the trek. Accordingly they have told a number of friends of their schedule, and supplied their approximate itinerary to Game Warden Pilot, Jack McPhee, of Plaisted, who flies over the area often in the line of duty. Aside from exposure and hypothermia, perhaps the greatest danger facing the pair, especially along the St. John River, will be weak ice. Garrett commented that inlets and outlets of ponds as well as fissure lines on a lake can be just as dangerous as the more predictable currents of the river, and the two plan to give such hazards a wide berth. On the river they will be traveling right along the shoreline as much as possible, and each will trail about 50 feet of rough manila rope, which can be grabbed by the other partner, should one of them break through the ice. First aid kits, a sewing kit, and repair kits, containing a crooked knife, leather, canvas, and wire were also carefully planned and included in the equipment list. Each also carries a flask of water buried deep inside layers of wool to assure against dehydration. In extreme cold, the body can lose as much water through respiration as through perspiration during hot weather, and drinking ice water or eating snow will sap vital body heat from the extremities and can enhance the chances of hypothermia. This condition can be very dangerous because the symptoms are very subtle and impair the judgment of the victim. Their real ace in the hole as far as safety is concerned, is the relaxed schedule. They have no real deadlines to meet, and sufficient extra food to sit out several days of really severe weather should this become necessary. |
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But although aware of the dangers, the young guides did
not dwell upon them as they prepared their loads, at Greenville. For them
the trek was more than an adventure, more even then an ordinary wedding
trip. It was a chance to see more of the wild country that has been such
an important part of their lives, during hardest time of the year; and
to learn about their own ability to sustain themselves in its midst.
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